It's common to see "handmade" or "made by hand" on leather goods. However, many use machines for the main stitching. At SHLURA , we opt for 100% handmade, with each stitch being made by hand using ancestral techniques.

Our hand sewing technique

At SHLURA , we practice straight hand sewing with thick thread, a demanding method that is distinguished by:

• Perfectly aligned dots, with the slight variations of human work.
• An oversized wire (1.2mm) for exceptional strength.
• A sturdier construction where the leather will give way before the stitching.

This technique, inherited from traditional saddlery workshops, cannot be faithfully reproduced by a machine.

Hand Sewing vs. Machine Sewing: The Key Differences

How to recognize a machine seam?

1. Regularity and Size of Points

Machine stitching is characterized by perfectly even stitching. Each stitch is identical in size and spacing, resulting in a uniform and often more rigid appearance. The punched holes are usually round and can be more aggressive on the leather.

2. Type and Size of Wire Used

Machines typically use fine threads, often nylon or polyester, with a diameter of 0.6 to 1 mm. These threads are smooth and perfectly even, less visible, and do not create the pronounced relief typical of hand-sewn stitching.

3. Reverse Side of the Seam

On the reverse side of the leather, machine stitching often displays visible and uniform thread loops. These loops are the result of the machine interlacing the threads. Hand-stitched stitching, on the other hand, features invisible knots in the thickness of the leather, making the reverse side cleaner and less visible.

4. Tools and Techniques

Industrial sewing machines are equipped with precise mechanisms that allow for fast and even sewing. The holes pierced by these machines are usually round and can be harsher on leather, which can affect its long-term durability.

Visual differences between saddle stitching and machine stitching

• Saddle stitching : The stitches are slightly slanted and have a slight variation, typical of handcrafted work. The stitches are also more widely spaced and the thread is thicker, which gives a robust and authentic look.
• Machine stitching : The stitches are perfectly aligned and uniform, with regular spacing. The threads used are finer, which gives a cleaner, more industrial look.

Machine and hand sewing life span

Hand sewing

Hand sewing, as practiced at SHLURA , is synonymous with durability and strength. Here's why:

• Wire resistance : The use of a thick, strong thread, often made of waxed linen, ensures exceptional strength. This type of thread is less likely to break under tension and is more resistant to wear and tear over time.
• Sewing technique : Each stitch is knotted individually, which means that even if one thread breaks, the rest of the seam remains intact. This method reduces the risk of complete unraveling.
• Leather preservation : The ovalized holes, characteristic of hand stitching, preserve the integrity of the leather by reducing stress points, which extends the life of the item.

In short, hand-sewn items are designed to last for decades, even generations, and their quality often improves over time, developing a unique patina that tells the story of their use.

Machine sewing

Machine sewing, although fast and efficient, has different characteristics in terms of durability:

• Thread and technique Machines typically use finer threads and even stitches. While this gives a neat, even look, fine threads can be more vulnerable to wear and tear.
• Risk of unseaming : If a thread breaks, there is a higher risk of unraveling, as stitches are often formed by interlacing two threads. If one thread breaks, the other can unravel more easily.
• Impact on leather : The rounder, more aggressive holes punched by machines can weaken the leather over time, especially if it is subjected to repeated stress.

Although machine stitching is strong and suitable for many everyday uses, it may not offer the same longevity as hand stitching, especially under heavy use.

In conclusion, while both techniques have their merits, hand sewing is often preferred for high-quality, long-lasting items, where craftsmanship and durability are priorities. Machine sewing, on the other hand, is ideal for mass production where speed and consistency are essential.

Our traditional tools

SHLURA perpetuates this know-how with:

• Diamond-shaped awl for piercing without tearing.
• Linen thread waxed with beeswax for maximum strength.
• Saddle clamp for a perfect fit.
• Dry point compass for precise drawings.